Mountaineering

Matterhorn of the South

Mt Aspiring Tititea  Matterhorn of the South

With recommendations from Alastair McDowell after his record-breaking climb of Mt Aspiring Tititea, Andy Carruthers and crew plan their own summit of this incredible maunga. Four days in Mt Aspiring National Park not only offer the team breathtaking views and a birthday bubbles celebration at the summit, but also key takeaways into how they could minimise 'the scary moments' and maximise safety and comfort the next time around.

A Night Out on Mt Arthur

Kahurangi Bivvy  A Night Out on Mt Arthur

Defined by its distinctive karst rock formations and sinkholes that remind trampers to guard each step, Mt Arthur lends itself to a photographer’s paradise. Documenting his trek to the peak with camera in tow, Peter Laurenson captures the maunga in all its glory.

Catastrophe on Cascade Saddle

Winter Tramping  Catastrophe on Cascade Saddle

Completion of the Great Walks may lead less experienced trampers into a false sense of security, resulting in some attempting backcountry tracks beyond their skill sets. After finishing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and Abel Tasman Coastal Track, a young tourist sets off on the Cascade Saddle in Mt Aspiring National Park. Under snow cover, Cascade Saddle is a serious alpine crossing that requires outdoor competence and proper equipment. Johnny Mulheron discusses the tragic details behind this solo tramper's fatal fall in winter conditions and what lessons we can take away.

Leading Alpine Trips

Winter Tips  Leading Alpine Trips

What makes a suitable alpine leader and how do you identify these people in your club? New Zealand clubs have a proud tradition of passing on knowledge to newer members who later themselves become leaders. FMC provides a guide to identifying and supporting not only current alpine leaders, but a framework to raise up the next generation.

The Jagged-Upham Couloir Attempt

Close Call  The Jagged-Upham Couloir Attempt

A close call occurs on Jagged Peak with one climber undergoing a serious accident, successful helicopter rescue and lengthy recovery. Heather Rhodes joins Vaughan Snowdon and Simon Bell to attempt Jagged Peak in the Arrowsmith Range of South Canterbury, resulting in a 300m fall.

Darkness and Light in the Olivines

What I Did Find  Darkness and Light in the Olivines

After receiving the tragic news that her partner Lochie is missing, Tara pauses their plans to traverse along the Southern Alps from Cape Farewell to Fiordland to help with his search. When the search is called off, she makes the heavy-hearted decision to continue with the trip. Tara recounts the final leg of her journey as a Simon Bell Memorial Scholarship recipient – a solo trek across the Olivine Ice Plateau towards Red Mountain and down to the ocean at Big Bay.

Club Trip to Pioneer Hut

Mountaineer's Dilemma  Club Trip to Pioneer Hut

Eight days and multiple peaks make for another epic adventure with friends. Rob Hawes leads a party of six climbing from Pioneer Hut, high above Fox Glacier in Westland National Park. With volatile weather conditions, they face the tough decision to continue on or turn back from summiting Mt Tasman, New Zealand's second highest peak.

Mountain Safety

Scenarios  Mountain Safety

Safety in the mountains is a serious topic and one that requires good judgment and experience. During an interactive presentation about his Aoraki/Mt Cook climb in 2011, Simon Bell shares photos and key points for climbers to consider in various scenarios.

Cheeky Keas, I Reckon

Rescue  Cheeky Keas, I Reckon

Chris Sommer and his new climbing mate take on Friday’s Fool – a 200 meter mixed (rock and ice) route at the heart of the Remarkables range. After their rope gets mysteriously cut, the pair face a life or death situation resulting in a Search and Rescue evacuation.

Turret Peak

Rolleston Range  Turret Peak

A fun, sociable weekend as Nina Dickerhof, Rob Munro, James Thornton, and Simon Bell visit the Rolleston Range at the head of Lake Coleridge and climb Turret Peak. This is Simon’s account of the trip, which was previously published in NZAC’s 'Vertigo.'

Wilderlife
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